Yeah it's time for the SURF WOODY project again,so let's get started on Part-B !! STEP ONE-Get a 3 foot long piece of 1" angle iron and 2 automotive hose clamps ( available from auto parts and hardware stores ). The clamps are approximately 2 1/2 " diameter. STEP TWO-Turn bottom frame upside down and mount angle iron and clamp as shown.Make sure angle iron is centered with frame tubes. STEP THREE-Now mount top frame right side up the same way,with the head tube clamped to the angle iron and the bottom brackets of both frames touching.If they don't touch,you need to find another top frame. The ideal fit is if the top frame bottom bracket sits right on top of the bottom frames
bottom bracket,but it's okay if it's a little forward or a little behind as long as they touch when the head tubes are aligned and clamped. STEP FOUR- Using a Sharpie,mark the spot where the 2 bottom brackets touch on both sides as shown. STEP FIVE- Measure the distance between the bottom of the top frames head tube and the top of the bottom frames head tube. Write down this figure as you will need it later when making the steering coupler. STEP SIX- Remove the angle iron and clamps.On each frames bottom bracket,using a straight edge and a sharpie,mark a line across connecting the two marks you already made ( as shown ). STEP SEVEN- Now measure half the distance across each bottom bracket and make a cross mark. STEP EIGHT- Using a 3/8" drillbit,drill both bottom brackets at the cross mark ( as shown ). STEP NINE- Find a short bolt with approximately a 3/8 " shaft and a nut ( no washers ) and bolt the 2 frames together at the bottom brackets. DON"T tighten the bolt all the way tight just yet!!! STEP TEN- Now install your fork on the bottom frame,and for this build I'm using an upside down fork on the top frame too ( I'll explain why in a later post ). Remember to put all the parts together upside down,including the bearing cups. Make sure everything fits properly and rotates smoothly.Don't forget the grease!!!! STEP ELEVEN- Find 2 handlebar stems ( cheapo steel MTB stems with Allen bolt adjusters ) that fit the forks you're using. 21.1 OR 22.2 will work. STEP TWELVE- Cut off the main shaft parts and grind smooth ( as shown ). STEP THIRTEEN- Install the stem shafts so that approximately 2" is exposed. Make sure they are good and tight !!!! STEP FOURTEEN- Now,keeping the distance between the head tubes the same as your previous measurement in step five,measure 3/4" down each stem shaft and make a mark there. Measure the distance between THOSE 2 marks. This figure will be the length of the steering coupler. STEP FIFTEEN- To make the steering coupler tube,you need to find a length of 1" O.D. tubing ( frame scraps or as in this case a leg from a display rack ) that is at least as long as the measurement you made in step 14. Cut the tube to that length. STEP SIXTEEN- Now make a 1 1/4 " long slot in each end of the steering coupler tube as shown,approximately 1/8" wide. STEP SEVENTEEN- Find 2 seat post clamps that fit the diameter of the steering coupler tube and slide them on loosely.Put the steering tube coupler over the stem stubs,line it up with your 3/4" marks and tighten down each end as shown. Remember the measurement you made in step 5? When the head tubes are THAT distance apart that means they are in alignment. If everything is right it should rotate freely. If not,adjust ONE END of the coupler up or down until it does. STEP EIGHTEEN- Put the crank bearing cups back in the bottom frame ( your cranks will go in the bottom frame,NEVER THE TOP!!!! ). Line up the bottom bracket sides by tapping them into place with a hammer.Now tighten down the bolt/nut combo that holds the bottom brackets together.The top bottom bracket may distort slightly,that's okay.Again check that the steering rotates smoothly,if not loosen the bottom bracket bolt and re-position until it does. NOW YER DONE WITH PART-B !!!!! Part-C will deal with making the sissy bar and adjusting the angle of the seat tube.Any questions,comments,or criticisms, ( positive or negative ) E-mail me at
omahgarsh@gmail.com I'd love to hear what you have to say!!!!!!
bottom bracket,but it's okay if it's a little forward or a little behind as long as they touch when the head tubes are aligned and clamped. STEP FOUR- Using a Sharpie,mark the spot where the 2 bottom brackets touch on both sides as shown. STEP FIVE- Measure the distance between the bottom of the top frames head tube and the top of the bottom frames head tube. Write down this figure as you will need it later when making the steering coupler. STEP SIX- Remove the angle iron and clamps.On each frames bottom bracket,using a straight edge and a sharpie,mark a line across connecting the two marks you already made ( as shown ). STEP SEVEN- Now measure half the distance across each bottom bracket and make a cross mark. STEP EIGHT- Using a 3/8" drillbit,drill both bottom brackets at the cross mark ( as shown ). STEP NINE- Find a short bolt with approximately a 3/8 " shaft and a nut ( no washers ) and bolt the 2 frames together at the bottom brackets. DON"T tighten the bolt all the way tight just yet!!! STEP TEN- Now install your fork on the bottom frame,and for this build I'm using an upside down fork on the top frame too ( I'll explain why in a later post ). Remember to put all the parts together upside down,including the bearing cups. Make sure everything fits properly and rotates smoothly.Don't forget the grease!!!! STEP ELEVEN- Find 2 handlebar stems ( cheapo steel MTB stems with Allen bolt adjusters ) that fit the forks you're using. 21.1 OR 22.2 will work. STEP TWELVE- Cut off the main shaft parts and grind smooth ( as shown ). STEP THIRTEEN- Install the stem shafts so that approximately 2" is exposed. Make sure they are good and tight !!!! STEP FOURTEEN- Now,keeping the distance between the head tubes the same as your previous measurement in step five,measure 3/4" down each stem shaft and make a mark there. Measure the distance between THOSE 2 marks. This figure will be the length of the steering coupler. STEP FIFTEEN- To make the steering coupler tube,you need to find a length of 1" O.D. tubing ( frame scraps or as in this case a leg from a display rack ) that is at least as long as the measurement you made in step 14. Cut the tube to that length. STEP SIXTEEN- Now make a 1 1/4 " long slot in each end of the steering coupler tube as shown,approximately 1/8" wide. STEP SEVENTEEN- Find 2 seat post clamps that fit the diameter of the steering coupler tube and slide them on loosely.Put the steering tube coupler over the stem stubs,line it up with your 3/4" marks and tighten down each end as shown. Remember the measurement you made in step 5? When the head tubes are THAT distance apart that means they are in alignment. If everything is right it should rotate freely. If not,adjust ONE END of the coupler up or down until it does. STEP EIGHTEEN- Put the crank bearing cups back in the bottom frame ( your cranks will go in the bottom frame,NEVER THE TOP!!!! ). Line up the bottom bracket sides by tapping them into place with a hammer.Now tighten down the bolt/nut combo that holds the bottom brackets together.The top bottom bracket may distort slightly,that's okay.Again check that the steering rotates smoothly,if not loosen the bottom bracket bolt and re-position until it does. NOW YER DONE WITH PART-B !!!!! Part-C will deal with making the sissy bar and adjusting the angle of the seat tube.Any questions,comments,or criticisms, ( positive or negative ) E-mail me at omahgarsh@gmail.com I'd love to hear what you have to say!!!!!!
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