Tallbike project time folks !!!!! This one is X-tra FREAKY !!!!!!! I,m going to be using some tried and true tricks along with a few new ideas that have been rollin' around in my noggin !!!!! This is going to be a RUSTomized Rat Rod type of build,paint sripped off,metal ground down to PROMOTE rust!! I might partially re-paint some of it with red primer and light yellow satin,but I haven't really decided yet. This is going to be a WILD ONE with lots of very odd features, it might take quite a while and require many posts. Stick with me though,it will be worth it!!!!!! I love RE-cyclin' and will be using some damaged parts in this build ( I don't like throwin' away NUFFIN'!!!! ),which includes the bottom frame. It's a girls Huffy 26" MTB frame from an abandoned bum bike. It had been run into a wall so the head tube was crunched backwards so the wheel was hitting the frame. To most people this is scrap metal,but to me it's the basis for a new project!!! This bike will have a 26" rear wheel w/3-speed hub,a modified 12" front wheel,a chopped down MTB fork,a LARGE cargo platform w/bamboo slats, a banana seat w/tall sissy bar,and a steering wheel w/brake levers AND shifter !!!! There are 2 reasons for using a 12" wheel,#one-correcting the head tube angle and-#two-the smaller the front wheel the more room for cargo on the platform!! You'll understand once you see how the platform is made and attached.WHEWW!! Dat's a lotta work but here goes !!!!!!!!! STEP ONE- I stirpped down the HUFFY bottom frame and cut off the seat tube at the top of the rear stays. STEP TWO-I cut off the top tube and rear stays on the TOP frame,also stripping off the paint.I will show you how to determine which frames are compatible ( TOP + BOTTOM ) in PART-B. STEP-THREE-Find a MTB fork that fits the bottom frame. STEP-FOUR- find a BMX fork that has the same diameter tubing as the MTB fork.STEP-FIVE- cut down both forks so they are just long enough to fit a 12" front wheel. STEP-SIX-Cut 2 lengths of tubing ( frame or fork scraps ) that are the same inside diameter as both of the fork tubes.STEP-SEVEN- Tap the tubing chunks into the top part of the fork then tap the bottom fork pieces onto those. Mount the front wheel to make sure everything clears and fits properly,if not,FIX IT NOW!!!!STEP-EIGHT- Make sure everything's even and drill 1/4" holes in each section all the way through both sides.STEP-NINE-Attach bolts and nyloc nuts to holes to make sure it's strong and holds together.I used brake studs from old horse shoe style brakes with one side cut off. STEP-TEN-Squeeze rear stays and dropouts together until they measure 4 1/4",test fit the rear wheel to make sure it is straight in the frame,just take the time to adjust it "til it's right!!! This is done so you can mount a 3-speed and/or coaster brake hub.You will have to decide which you want to use and find the right type or lace one up yourself. STEP-ELEVEN-Assemble forks,wheels,and frame.Remember to mount the forks upside down!! STEP-TWELVE-Check angle of head tube with an angle finder tool, Ideal setting is 70 degrees ( + or - 3 degrees ) mine is 67 degrees.A longer fork makes more of an angle ( smaller # of degrees ),while a shorter fork makes less of an angle (larger # of degrees ),ZERO being FLAT and 90 degrees being straight up. OKAY that's it for now.This is the same basic setup for all my bolt together tallbikes ( except for the cut down fork and 12" wheel ),normally I would be using a 16" front wheel and a 16" or 20" fork. It is also a good idea to use a bottom frame that has a 4" head tube,that way most 16" or 20" forks will fit it. PART-B will cover finding a compatible top frame,aligning and mounting it and making the steering coupler.STAY TUNED!!!!!!!!!! Any questions,comments,critcisms ( positive or negative ) please e-mail me at
omahgarsh@gmail.com I'd love to hear what you have to say!!!!!!!!
Tallbike project time folks !!!!! This one is X-tra FREAKY !!!!!!! I,m going to be using some tried and true tricks along with a few new ideas that have been rollin' around in my noggin !!!!! This is going to be a RUSTomized Rat Rod type of build,paint sripped off,metal ground down to PROMOTE rust!! I might partially re-paint some of it with red primer and light yellow satin,but I haven't really decided yet. This is going to be a WILD ONE with lots of very odd features, it might take quite a while and require many posts. Stick with me though,it will be worth it!!!!!! I love RE-cyclin' and will be using some damaged parts in this build ( I don't like throwin' away NUFFIN'!!!! ),which includes the bottom frame. It's a girls Huffy 26" MTB frame from an abandoned bum bike. It had been run into a wall so the head tube was crunched backwards so the wheel was hitting the frame. To most people this is scrap metal,but to me it's the basis for a new project!!! This bike will have a 26" rear wheel w/3-speed hub,a modified 12" front wheel,a chopped down MTB fork,a LARGE cargo platform w/bamboo slats, a banana seat w/tall sissy bar,and a steering wheel w/brake levers AND shifter !!!! There are 2 reasons for using a 12" wheel,#one-correcting the head tube angle and-#two-the smaller the front wheel the more room for cargo on the platform!! You'll understand once you see how the platform is made and attached.WHEWW!! Dat's a lotta work but here goes !!!!!!!!! STEP ONE- I stirpped down the HUFFY bottom frame and cut off the seat tube at the top of the rear stays. STEP TWO-I cut off the top tube and rear stays on the TOP frame,also stripping off the paint.I will show you how to determine which frames are compatible ( TOP + BOTTOM ) in PART-B. STEP-THREE-Find a MTB fork that fits the bottom frame. STEP-FOUR- find a BMX fork that has the same diameter tubing as the MTB fork.STEP-FIVE- cut down both forks so they are just long enough to fit a 12" front wheel. STEP-SIX-Cut 2 lengths of tubing ( frame or fork scraps ) that are the same inside diameter as both of the fork tubes.STEP-SEVEN- Tap the tubing chunks into the top part of the fork then tap the bottom fork pieces onto those. Mount the front wheel to make sure everything clears and fits properly,if not,FIX IT NOW!!!!STEP-EIGHT- Make sure everything's even and drill 1/4" holes in each section all the way through both sides.STEP-NINE-Attach bolts and nyloc nuts to holes to make sure it's strong and holds together.I used brake studs from old horse shoe style brakes with one side cut off. STEP-TEN-Squeeze rear stays and dropouts together until they measure 4 1/4",test fit the rear wheel to make sure it is straight in the frame,just take the time to adjust it "til it's right!!! This is done so you can mount a 3-speed and/or coaster brake hub.You will have to decide which you want to use and find the right type or lace one up yourself. STEP-ELEVEN-Assemble forks,wheels,and frame.Remember to mount the forks upside down!! STEP-TWELVE-Check angle of head tube with an angle finder tool, Ideal setting is 70 degrees ( + or - 3 degrees ) mine is 67 degrees.A longer fork makes more of an angle ( smaller # of degrees ),while a shorter fork makes less of an angle (larger # of degrees ),ZERO being FLAT and 90 degrees being straight up. OKAY that's it for now.This is the same basic setup for all my bolt together tallbikes ( except for the cut down fork and 12" wheel ),normally I would be using a 16" front wheel and a 16" or 20" fork. It is also a good idea to use a bottom frame that has a 4" head tube,that way most 16" or 20" forks will fit it. PART-B will cover finding a compatible top frame,aligning and mounting it and making the steering coupler.STAY TUNED!!!!!!!!!! Any questions,comments,critcisms ( positive or negative ) please e-mail me at omahgarsh@gmail.com I'd love to hear what you have to say!!!!!!!!
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